Zermatt Three Lake Trail – Riffelalp to Sunnegga

This trail was a nice surprise! All the other hikes we had done in the area had an almost constant view of the Matterhorn. So I was worried that we’d be mostly in the forest and wouldn’t see the Matterhorn until the end. But this hike was so beautiful, especially with the fall colors, that I definitely wouldn’t have wanted to miss it.

We visited three little lakes on this hike, the last at the Sunnegga playground, with lots of fun amusements for the kids. We finished the day by riding mountain scooters back to Zermatt, an optional but very fun way to get down the mountain.

If you want a printable itinerary for Zermatt that includes this outing, you can purchase my new eBook:  Switzerland with Kids: 3 Days in Zermatt

Gallery

Location

This trail is located in Zermatt in southern Switzerland. It is reached by mountain train.

This trail starts at the Riffelalp stop of the Zermatt-Gornergrat mountain railway. The trail starts in a forest, hiking to to three alpine lakes, ending at a playground at Sunnegga, where you can take a funicular back to Zermatt or rent a mountain scooter to ride down instead.

Trail map

We followed the Naturweg #19, making a short detour to the Grünsee.

We wanted to do the 5 Lake Walk but it required riding the lift from Sunnegga to Blauherd, which was already closed for the season when we were there in October. So we plan to do those next time.

Getting there

This trail is located in the Zermatt area in southern Switzerland.

By car: Drive to Täsch and park in the large parking structure at the train station. Take the short train ride from Täsch to Zermatt. The Gornergrat mountain train station is directly across the street from the Zermatt train station.

By public transport: Take a train to Zermatt. The Gornergrat mountain train station is directly across the street from the Zermatt train station.

Opening Times

This trail and the accompanying mountain transport is usually open from mid-June to early October. The mountain transport runs every day from about 8:30 to 17:30 but check the websites for the current opening hours and possible closures.

Ticket prices

First you ride the Gornergrat train one way from Zermatt to Riffelalp. In 2021, this one-way ticket costs CHF 28/adult in July/August. See current Gornergratbahn prices. 

The hike ends at Sunnegga, where you ride the funicular one way down to Zermatt. In 2021, this one-way ticket costs CHF 18.50/adult in July/August. See current Sunnegga funicular prices.

Discounts: 50% for children under 16, SBB Half-fare, GA and Swiss Travel Pass. Free for children under 9 or with SBB Junior cards. 

At Sunnegga, you can skip the funicular and instead ride a kick bike 7.2 km down to Zermatt. This costs CHF 18 per person, includes helmet. They offer a family ticket for CHF 45 for 2 adults and 2 children under 16. It is suitable for children aged 9+ with a minimum height of 130 cm. More about this ride below.

Photo story of trail

Get off the Gornergrat mountain train at Riffelalp and cross the tracks to the north.

Scan your ticket at the turnstile to exit. Then turn right and walk on the dirt road toward Sunnegga.

The trail starts on dirt road with some industrial junk around. So I was a little worried. But the trail quickly turns into a regular beautiful path in the forest.

First part of the trail through the forest.

Can you believe these colors??? Beginning of October was a great time to go.

Most the trail is dirt, but but there is one big section just walking on rocks, so lumpy.

When you leave the forest, you’ll pass the Zu Seewjinu lodge, which has a restaurant and small hotel, open in summer and ski season. But it was closed for the season when we were there in early October.

Keep walking past the lodge following signs to Grünsee.

Here’s the Grünsee. The water was significantly lower than pics I had seen online. So even though it was still pretty, I was a little disappointed and definitely want to come in summer when it’s full.

Retrace your steps back to the lodge, then turn right following the footpath to Moosjisee.

Follow the signs to Moosjisee/Suneggea, not the trail Sunnegga/Blauherd, which stays on the dirt road.

So gorgeous right here!!!

The trails dips down through the forest and joins a dirt road for a bit. Just for perspective, the Stellisee lake is above that big gray area in the pic on the right.

After a short walk on the road, turn left at this trail sign, following signs to Moosjisee.

Down some switchbacks in the forest, then crossing this river and joining another dirt road.

You can now see the Moosjisee in the distance.

First look at the Moosjisee, not that impressive. It’s more of a functional reservoir than a pristine alpine lake. It’s right next to the dirt road used by workers and has some waterworks structures and buildings around the edges. I wouldn’t plan on lingering here, better to picnic elsewhere.

But if you are clever, you can get some pretty pics of the Moosjisee lake by cropping out the industrial elements.

On the far side of the Moosjisee, take the footpath leading straight uphill, which is the last stretch to Sunnegga. It’s the only hard work you’ll do on the trail, but at least it’s short.

Last look back at the Moosjisee as we walk up the hill.

You wind around these hills for about 15 minutes before reaching the next lake.

Arriving at the third lake, Leisee, right next to Sunnegga.

There is a big playground here and lots of picnic areas with tables, grills and shelter. Without the clouds, you’d be seeing the Matterhorn clearly from here.

There is a big water play structure, rafts to pull across the lake, and lounge chairs. On a hot summer day, kids splash in the lake water.

When you are done, take the small free self-service funicular up the hill to the Sunnegga compound, where you’ll find a restaurant and WCs.

Ride mountain scooter down to Zermatt

From here, you can ride the big funicular down through the mountain to Zermatt. Or you can choose to rent a kick bike and ride down like we did, about 7.2 km on a dirt road to Zermatt (shown on map below). It took us about 40 mins to get down.

Rental costs CHF 18 per person, including helmet. They offer a family ticket for CHF 45 for 2 adults and 2 children under 16. It is suitable for children aged 9+ with a minimum height of 130 cm. They recommend children be at least 9 years old and 130 cm to ride. You could hypothetically ride double with a smaller child (maybe 6 years old), but I don’t know if they allow it (call and ask).

It’s not difficult, but it requires common sense and some hand strength. Challenges include keeping your balance, using the hand brakes almost constantly to control your speed, avoiding the infrequent work vehicle on the road, and not skidding out on the loose dirt and gravel. I crashed my bike, trying to stop too quickly on a turn, flipping head first over the handlebars. Luckily I only had some scrapes and bruises but you could definitely injure yourself worse.

Your bike ride ends at this elevator above the Sunnegga funicular entrance. Take this elevator down with your bikes and return them to the attendant, who will check your receipt. It’s a short walk back to the center of Zermatt.

See more of our Zermatt hikes here.